Many students, musicians, artists and other slightly desperate people find their way to the orchards for the few months of labor tending the apples. This starts in May with the thinning of the clusters of green apples so that just two or three are allowed to develop unhindered.
If you are fast and dedicated, the farmer might keep you for the next process called propping. The limbs get so heavy that the orchardist must support the limbs with sticks of old apple limbs specially harvested for this purpose.The rest of the summer is spent irrigrating and driving fertilizer sticks around the roots. One disturbing thing is the amount of poison these farmers put out to control the rats that come at night. This is a waste of money designed by the Monsanto people to make money. The tactic is selling by fear. I often thought this to be counterproductive since these critters are easily trapped in a system called Have a Hart box traps. This is how gypsies help the farmer. Their gift is rodent control. The gypsy has ferrets that are all muscle and slender enough to enter the rats lair and ferret the rats out of the orchard. The ferret is a ferocious little critter. Yet it becomes docile around its handler. Ferrets are especially good around barns and corn bins. In just one night, this soldier will clear the premises of the rat problem. There a few types of ferrets like the black footed ferret and soats which are a smaller variety and much less aggressive. These critters make excellent pets that will guard your children with their lives. The other way is with big cats easily trained to hunt at night. These cats can be had for free at the local humane center. The deer are simply part of the ecosystem and help fertilize the trees. The human scavengers are easily controlled and should be allowed to use the ground fruit for food. These folks are probably useful as workers and hardly a significant factor in the bottom line.
These ideas would keep the orchards flourishing and healthy with a better, safer product to offer the public. The housewife has the ultimate say on Apples. The market place rules the orchards.
All one has to do is show up and start networking to get a placement with an authority from the Employment Center out there in apple country. Once you get a placement you get housing and a very small stipend for food. Eating communally helps a great deal. You work 8 hrs a day then get ready for the next day. I found Lake Chelan area to be the most hospitable with the nicest growers who are truly concerned for your well being. You work in a group. You are given a ladder to carry. This is systematic work that pays minimum wage. This is good decent work for the younger guy or girl who needs extra money for school or children. The work is challenging but you soon become stronger being in the bright sunshine. I always enjoyed the night time gatherings over the open fires and music, singing and fellowship in the work ethic. Just go and see for yourself.
I had the chance to fly to Fiji from Burnaby in Vancouver to visit Ba town. One of our visitors had relatives in Ba town who would welcome me. From there, I traveled to Ng which is home to the Ng Temple where the Cobra is emerging from the ground. At night, the temple worker scrapes away more soil and enhances the carving little by little. What a fool believes is beyond my comprehension as I continue to travel onward. One night, a women invited me to visit a remote community that still maintains the old traditions of ancient native Fijian culture. It was a short boat ride under a full moon with the phosphorescence trailing our little skiff. Truly astonishing were the 100 percent native Fijians dressed in loincloths living in grass huts cooking on open fires. These are the last traditionalists in Fiji.
The slit drum was sounded upon my arrival. This drum is used for everything. Different rhythms tell the island what is happening.
They sleep on dirt floors and have no contact with anyone outside of the community. I was the exception because my guide explained who I was and that I come in peace. They immediately prepared food for us. Fried fish and coconut creme, fresh fruit and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves roasted over a pit typical of the South Seas Islanders.
With morning about to break, we began the trip back on smooth waters with the moon setting and the first glimmer of sunrise forming on the horizon. I continued on to the small village of Mata ni Wai on the northern shore on Vanua Levu.
I met the Chief who had a staph infection on his foot. I took him to the hospital in Lambasa and got him antibiotics. I soon was treating everyone. A new born also had a massive staph infection. In his sleep, he kicked his legs outside of the moquito netting. His legs were swollen and he was howling. I immediately forced the parents to take the infant to the Medical Center. I ran around until I found a doctor who would see this infant. She was alarmed and put the child on an antibiotic IV drip as soon as she saw him. It is amazing how fast she got that infection under control. I soon was treating all the children.
One morning, the Grandfather of this little girl was pleading for help. The poor child was covered in sores from mosquito bites that got infected with staph. All I had with me was triple antibiotic ointment I bought at the Chemist for 7 bucks. I dabbed it on each and every infected sore. I told him to lay her down for a nap. A few hours passed. He brought the child to me again. A miracle had occurred. All her wounds were healing. Her fever was gone and the poor thing was now smiling.
I was given the chance to go spear fishing with the bruddahs. That evening the village had a massive feast in my honor. The way to know you are being honored is the fish head is given. I then passed it to the guys who showed me how to suck out the brain and eyes. I was glad to finally have some protein food.
While fishing, I decided to wait in the launch because exerting in the heat would soon exhaust me. There was a little island called Sou Sou that I thought to walk to on the sand bar forming on the falling tide. I spied a papaya plant and found a convienient bamboo pole to knock it down with. I stepped on the palm fronds. I was intently focused on the fruit, I felt something move next to my foot. I lept back. I saw the tell tale white and black of the deadly sea snake. I was standing on a pit of vipers. They come ashore to sleep and warm their reptilian bodies. Their teeth are small but if you get bitten you die in hours. No chance of survival. I thanked God for giving me awareness and the presence of mind to forget the hunger and leave the tranquil waters of Fiji.
I prowled the docks looking for transit yachts in Suva. I found another ferro cement home build with a young couple sailing the South Pacific looking for a third crew member. Yippee.....Was I lucky or what? The only requirement was I stand watch on the dreaded graveyard shift. I had no choice.
The transition from day to evening into the night was the most intriguing experience to have alone in the cockpit while the rest of the crew enjoyed their time sleeping. I would flip on the spreader lights to check the sails and look for the telltail luff at the edge of the sail. This flutter indicates a full and by surge for maximum thrust. In doing so, one attracts swarms of flying fish that are attracted by the bright light. These schools of fish would come hurtling over the rail like mini torpedoes hovering almost stationary, eye to eye with me for a moment in complete startlement. They finally banked away back to the watery world they emerged from a few seconds before. Some would get tangled in the rigging and fall helplessly to the deck. I would collect these for a nice breakfast for the next morning's feast.
We were headed to Nuku Alofa in the Northern Group of the Tongan Isles. I had applied for a job there at the International Hotel before leaving Burnaby.. When we shoved off we almost immediately ran into bad weather. One of those tropical depressions was forming into a Cyclone. The luck of the Irish.
We anchored in a fiord for the night and let the thing blow itself out. The next morning the ocean was in turmoil. Don and Linda decided to pull up the hook and go for it.
The waters are cobalt blue and very cold despite the latitude. We were close hauled and running hard against the confused seas. I was thrilled to be at sea again. I liked to put on the spreader lights because they attract fish at night. I drove the boat into a school of flying fish as big as salmon. They came flying over the rails pausing in midair. This great fish with huge eyes in a startled expression stared at me for a few seconds then returned to the sea. In the morning, there were quite of few fish on deck, perfect for breakfast. It is really hard to starve on the ocean if you have the presence of mind to take advantage of every situation. One of the overlooked feasts grow on the undeside of the boat. Barnacles and various edible seaweeds abound. Put on that facemask and get dinner.
One night. I spied a huge light coming over the horizon. It kept getting larger and larger. To my untrained eye it appeared to be a masthead light on a freighter. I quickly jumped down the hatch and woke Don out of a dead sleep. He jumped up poked his head out and chuckled. Venus rising is all he said. They had a good laugh in the morning as I fried up those fish and went to the rack that was still warm from their bodies.
We pulled into the Ha-api group of the lower string of islands in Tonga. Now protected by the surrounding islands, we could reflect on the pumice field we passed through spewed out from the many undersea volcanoes in these latitudes. Nuku alofa was a short 500 miles away.
As we pulled into the channel that eventually led to our destination, I spied another yacht anchored out. We decided to hale this yacht. We were immediately invited to dinner to trade information.
Their boat was in need of repairs and the only a boatyard that could perform repairs was in Suva where he had come from. The transom was rotting away. This is common in wooden ships making different landfalls. She is very nice schooner from British Colombia. The dinner of giant clams and fresh fish was special. I felt at home for the first time in my life.
I also had an ear infection that was getting worse. They told of a priest who treats the people in Neiafu.
The only thing was no money. He asked me to build him a back staircase out of cinder blocks. Deal....Since there was no cement, all I could do was stack the blocks into a stairway. I high tailed it to the International Hotel run by a Kentuckian.. .. about the meanest man I have ever met. The job was to paint the entire hotel white over and over again. I built a crew and started painting and painting. For over a month, I labored at this miserable job. One day, A high tech aluminum yacht pulled into the moorage. They came to have lunch and ridiculed me as I dangled from a ladder. I tricked my way onto this vessel and we set sail for the Capital on Tongatapu. Glad to leave that awful job. He never paid for my work but claimed the bar bill needed to be covered. Criminals all.
This was a motley crew of inexperienced seafolk on this salvaged ship. There was no food on board. The baby was stressed. The Captain was Swiss on the run for smuggling dope from Afganistan. His wife was Creole from the Caribbean Islands. We immediately recognized each other and had lots to talk about.
Forced to fish or die, I brought hand tied lures that I had made up in Honolulu months ago. We rigged up a sailboard mast with a clothespin and threw my lure overboard. Soon enough, a juvenile dorado started trailing it. The skipper put the helm over to slow the boat down. This gave the fish time to catch up. He took the bait. We hauled in a beautiful rainbow of a fish. As he slowly perished his bright colors became greyish. The giant fish stew was the best I ever tasted. With that lucky catch our trip was now set.
We dropped anchor offshore of Tongatapu. We immediately heard the squealing of a piglet being invited to dinner.
Sailing is about the most boring of activities especially long distance ocean voyaging. Best to make sure you can get along with everyone. The skipper can be a prick especially if he drinks at sea as many do. There are many who go to sea just to drink. Not even joking about that one. I bought my passage for 1 k. As soon as I forked it over the skipper bought 20 gallons of Popov's Vodka and nailed it into the cabin floor where he had his rack. Off we go with some of the ports opened so when we heeled over the main salon was flooded. Not a promising omen. Valhala is the next port or so it seemed.
Lori joined the crew at the last moment. The temperment changed a great deal with a woman from Minnesota aboard. As soon as we cleared the islands, I spied some type of vessel approaching us from the stern at a high rate of speed. As it got closer we could see the conning tower of a US sub on the same course heading of due south or 180 degrees on the Compass Rose. The skipper in all his mastery, thought his sailboat had the right of way. Little did he realize, it does not apply in open water. He finally saw his mistake and jumped down to start the engine. It would not start. I came down to help him saying fuel or electrical. This gave him the idea to check the connection to the battery. Sure enough and a hallelujah it roared to life. Lori calmly steered us out of danger. As the sub roared by, the commander looked back at us floundering in his gargantuan wake. The dead fish were caught up in the turbulence of that moment.
We got organized and hoisted the mainsail again, making our way to American Samoa. The waters there are filled with sharks.
We first made landfall at Palmyra atoll. There we got to explore and play. The island had been a military base. When the war ended the sailors left everything to fend for themselves. Two dogs called Army and Navy appropriately had become the fulltime occupants of this exquistely beautiful island paradise. They learned how to survive by chewing open coconuts and fishing for juvenile sharks using their legs to lure the critters in close. Working as a team, they would bite the dorsal fin and with a mighty action fling the thing onshore where it subsequently succombed just a few feet away from salvation. The dogs were smart. The would eat the organ meat first.
There was an inland lagoon filled with bonehead fish and giant mussels in knee deep crystal clear water. The surrounding vegetation held the nest of the blue and red footed boobies. You could walk up to the nests. The birds were unafraid. You are the first human they have ever seen.
The bottom of the lagoon was filled about a foot of dissolving shells from the many seabirds that fish here and discard the remains and the empty shells. It was like walking in a mush of oatmeal. I continued my circumnavigation alone. On the north shore, I came across pillboxes and other war relics. In the quiet surf was a wing of a corsair that was probably trying to land on the long runway but crashed into the surf. Its wing bore the emblem of the US Air Force. As I continued on, I turned to the Southside and decided to take a look at the life in the ocean. In the distance, was the Two Palms island. I had my mask with me. As I stepped into ankle deep water I bent over with just the mask getting wet. I was astounded.
Among the varied colors of coral heads that created valleys, Buffalo fish swam in great schools or herds if you will. There were wrasses and other colorful reef dwellers. Suddenly a bull shark saw me and made a rush towards to where I was standing. I jumped back just in time, shutting off that movie. There is danger at every step in paradise.
The skippers had been out spearfishing. They had quite a catch to barbeque that evening on the shore.
I elected to sleep after a long day hiking around the island. Glad I did. The next morning everyone who had eaten those fish were sick having been poisoned by the common fever from the coral called Ciguteria. The fish they speared were of the variety that eat coral which is poisonous, thus gaining protection from predators. Any predator dies a slow painful death. AFLfter many generations they learn which fish eat the coral.
The rest of my time was taking care of the sick. The only way to recover is to drink copious amounts of water. That was easy. The huge rainwater reservoir that soldiers built was still intact. Thus, the reason so many boaters come here. This is one of the only freshwater holdings in the South Pacific that is open for free use.
After a few drunken dinners at the Marina we retreated to the free moorage at Keehi Lagoon. All was ready for departure. Brian took advantage of my advice and visited the Campus library and found detailed charts of Palmyra Atoll. He xeroxed everything and even blew it up into a giant foldable chart that was essential for making land fall there. Everything was stowed, the lines coiled and we slipped away before sunrise. As we heeled over on a starboard tack the portholes began taking in water. Brian had forgotten to dog down these very important fresh air ports. Took us most of the morning to put things right again. The slosh of the massive waves were beginning to affect me. I climbed on deck to lay down in the shade of the mainsail on the rough surface of the coach house. I noticed a small speck on the horizon due North. I continued to observe this speck that was quickly overtaking us. It was becoming clear we were on a collision course with a US Navy sub.
I pointed this out to Brian. He immediately uncovered the engine and tried to start it. Nothing. I suggested it could be electrical. We jiggled the terminals. Suddenly the engine roared to life.
We began motoring out of harms way just in the nick of time. The skipper of the sub looked startled as he stormed by us within hailing distance. His wake almost caused us additional issues. What a scary start to an otherwise tranquil beautiful blue sea voyage.
Next stop American Samoa. These islands were the home to the tuna indusry. Massive amounts of tuna are caught in purse sein nets. As the nets close the dolphins are trapped as well. It became my goal to teach as many fishermen the technique of backing down on the net driving the cable underwater giving the dolphins a chance to escape.
Soon we were back at sea headed due South over some of the deepest areas of the ocean. Brian accidentally left the windlass crank at the mailsail. It eventually wiggled lose and hit the deck on one bounce lept overboard much to our dismay. It was probably still vibrating as it buried itself in the bottom muck where thousands of ships from centuries past lay resting and decaying.
When we arrived at Palmyra, Brian decided we should go for a row around the lagoon. I was leaning back taking in some sunshine with my hands on the transom. Brian calmly mentioned I should pull my hands in. There was a black tip shark trailing the dingy and was about 6 inches from my fingers. I jumped as if already bitten. Welcome to Palmyra Atoll.
After a few hours onshore, I decided to go for a stroll on the shoreline. The tiny Fairy Terns were hovering over my head completely fascinated at this new creature on their beach. These birds had no fear because of their innocence and immense curiosity. It was a remarkable introduction to the nuances of being the first to be seen by these creatures.
On my walk, I brought my face mask hoping for a quick swim to cool off. I walked to the edge of the shelf of the lagoon. I put my mask on and thought it better to have a look first. Glad I did. In that moment, I saw a bull shark rushing the shelf to greet me. I jumped back startled at the agressive nature of the ocean. In that glance, I saw huge Buffalo fish schooling around the coral heads. The colorful reef fish were providing cleaning services. The wrasses were numerous and equally busy looking for food in this magnificent panorama of deeply intriguing colors that almost lured me to my untimely death. Danger lurks at every step along the path.
I continued on around the island. I eventually came upon the wreckage of a Corsair that had apparently crashed trying to land on the runway. The US insignia was still visible as a testament to the brave flyers who defended the country.
Along the beach, were pillboxes that guarded the north shore from the attack which never came. I soon completed my circumnavigation of the island finding many of the legendary coconut crabs that look like tree lobsters. I was exhausted so I swam out to the ship and soon was fast asleep.
Everyone was ashore preparing to roast the fish they speared. I was invited but chose to miss out on this free feed. Glad I did. The following day, everyone was sick and vomiting from Cigutaria poisoning.
The French MD who had arrived that morning was instantly put to work treating this new malady. It was Brian who shot this huge parrotfish that eats coral which is how the Cigutaria gets inside the fish. Some say it is a protective adaptation. I say it is the revenge of the ocean creatures. It takes three days of drinking clean water to finally rid oneself of the poison. God intervened on my behalf once again. The huge resevior provided a fast way to purge these posions. Unlimited fresh water is a treasure in the vastness of the ocean. This is what Palmyra Atoll is famous for. The largest freshwater reservoir in the South Pacific. This was built by the US Navy Seabees many years ago, before the War in the Pacific. When you study this in detail you come to realize this is a vast desert with few oasis.
This is why Palmyra attracted mariners and the US military during the war years. They built the huge reservoir that held millions of gallons of fresh rain water that falls daily on these shores. What joy to have fresh showers anytime you wanted.
There is a huge lagoon near the landing strip full on giant bonehead fish. These yatchies traveled all the way from Honolulu just to catch these fish, Florida style. It was not hard. The fish will go after anything thrown their way.
I was interested in the Blue footed Boobies nesting around this huge lagoon. These nestlings are comical birds who constantly squawk for food from the parent bird.
There are Red footed Boobies too but they have their own condominiums and keep to themselves.
The bottom of the lagoon is a soft mush made from the eons and eons of shellfish consumed by these birds. The salt water dissolves these shells combined with the intense heat from the glorious sun.
During the heat of the day the black tips cling to the bottom of the anchorage making it safer for a quick dip, a really quick dip, as it turns out. Most of the yatchies bathe at the foot of the ancient boat ramp the Navy used as a landing strip for water taxis. That gives them at least 10 feet to react to a shark attack.
Lori went on a diving expedition with the young Frenchmen who came in with a blown mainsail. They were diving from the inflatable Zodiac that everyone seems to have in the South Pacific. I was watching through binoculars when each one of them shot out of the water almost in a standing position. The 18 ft bull shark was circling the tender. There is less than 3 mm of rubberized canvas separating you from a bloody death. No one wanted to go diving again. I was getting used to these ocean threats.
I climbed up to the spreaders to have a look around. I got the bright idea to swan dive. However, I forgot the first rule of Murphys Law. What can go wrong will go wrong.
I should have rocked the boat before making that plunge. I had the leverage but not the common sense of a turd. Luckily, I missed the hull by mere inches nearly ending my South Seas adventure as a blood splat on the deck. When God is protecting you he really is protecting you.
I got my first haircut from another yatchie who had the skills. She was recently married to a French sailor. Man, was she voluptuously beautiful. Being cared for and touched by a elegant naked Parisian was almost too much for me. Then I remembered all the sharp tools she had at her disposal. I calmed down.
The 6 weeks few by. The nightly parties ended with the sunsets while the mantas lept from the waters close by. These creatures are huge. Seven feet wing tip to wing tip is the normal size. You only see them at twilight when most sea life comes alive trying to find that last scrap of food before darkness overtakes the ocean.
It was getting close to weighing anchor and moving on to American Somoa where Lori and I left the cruise under duress.
Brian had developed a possessive thing for Lori. She had spent the night on the French boat. Brain, in a drunken rage had rowed over in the morning and kidnapped her.
She started blowing her safety whistle which woke up the anchorage. The skippers were none too happy with Brian. They told him in no uncertain terms to deliver us to the closest port with an international airport. This was American Samoa. Pago Pago was your typical South Sea port . Tons of sharks greeted us as we stood offshore waiting to be granted entry.
I was glad this nightmare was over. The thousand I spent provisioning this nameless ferro hulk would never be recovered. Lori called her folks. They arranged a ticket back to Minnesota back to her waitressing job somewhere in the Twin Cities.
I spent the next few days visiting various towns along the coast. The little jitney buses were a trip with the artwork and the 47 rearview mirrors all gleaming in the sun. I made it to The Shark and Turtle village, took a look then headed back to Pago Pago.
I caught the big iron bird back to Honolulu and continued on to Seattle still dressed for the South Pacific. I was cold and wet, shivering like a dog when I finally arrived at the Front Door Inn. Ridden hard and put away wet as they say.
This was the beginning of the most interesting and pleasurable portion of my life. Not only was I welcomed and given a hot meal but a place to sleep, clothes and honest work as a roofer in Seattle.
I slept in a comfortable basement. I went to Bible class every morning to interpret the Word according to Love Israel who simply reads it as Love is Real. After the hell I went through this was so refreshing. I was charmed by their sincerity. The kids and the carpentry work by these men was astounding. They built everything they needed. They were master gardeners as well.
I soon was transferred to the Ranch in Arlington, home to 360 souls living in Army tents from Army Surplus. This was right up my alley.
There were barn dances every Saturday night with live devotional music continuing on until the Sunrise Services on the Lake.
They served the best coffee in the world. The Daily Grind was another Bistro they frequented for the finest beans imported from all over the planet.
These barn dances were meant as a gift of fellowship. Each member had a specially given name taken from the King James Bible. All the good ones like Honesty and Goodness as well as Frankness and Integrity were given to the Elders who led different groups of families. Some were loggers, some were musicians, others were bakers and candlestick makers. The skilled were assigned names like plowmen who cared for the string of Belgians horses that were massive but so incredibly gentle.
We started building better housing like the yurt on a platform. The structures had visclean windows that let in the glorious sunlight. The latticework was built with pop rivets then covered with heavy canvas of white sail cloth.
We eventually built a huge bathouse sauna complex out of the milled cedar we were producing. What a joy to get a warm sauna after a day of hard work on the ranch. It finally burned down because of some needless reason. Cedar readily burns.
I managed to live with each and every family group. I was there for two full years before being forced to leave. The hep was taking a toll. Everyone now had yellow eyes.
I left for medical treatment in Bellingham. And subsequently placed in Needhams Nursing Home in Bellingham.
After finally overcoming this illness, I decided to see if I could get in University. I was accepted and began a work/study program which led to a career in Radio Broadcasting. I was given freedom to design shows. My specialty was children's radio. The Golden Bear Airshow was immensely popular. I was invited to Akaska to expand the show there. Suddenly, I became a sensation. Teachers were bringing their 1st graders to see how radio shows were produced. I was praised but never got to a salaried position.
I coulda been somebody. LOL
Cassava is grown in the poor regions of earth. It is easily grown and will continue to send out rhizomes even after harvesting. It is a perennial plant capable of producing a huge harvest if left to flourish in a sunfilled spot with adequate water and fertilizer. Even rocky areas can be utilized to produce manioc which is its other name.
It is a fast growing root crop high in iron which makes it an ideal food for women and children since iron is a major component to building blood in the human body.
Cassava also know as manioc is a starchy vegatable that can be cooked in many ways. The easiest way to cook this vegetable is by soaking it in saltwater overnight then baking it on the coals of an open fire. Usually the husk gets carbonized but that's alright since carbon absorbs many impurities in the body including heavy metals.
Once fully roasted and cooled, one then opens it like a potato to remove the long fiberous string at the center of the tuber. One could add soy sauce or a few drops of hot sauce.
One can boil the tuber or simply cut it into chunks to be included in stews which includes meats and vegetables with a broth made from beef cubes. These are found in every supermarket.
The quality of the iron is a significant inclusion in every diet.
THIS IS A VERY VERSATILE FOOD THAT HAS SUSTAINED PEOPLE THROUGH SOME VERY DIFFICULT TIMES.